Actually, I created these things in hopes they would entice some outsized pre-spawn sac-a-lait from Lake Martin. They didn’t – at least, they haven’t yet – but I still have hope for them. Anyway, I made a bunch of ‘em and really liked the way they came out. So in order to justify making more when I got bored, I gave some to Roger Stouff on a creek-fishing trip we made a while back.
And he kicked my skinny little butt with them!
So I figured he earned the right to have them named for him. Well, they are actually “perch-float poppers”, but since I have poetic license…
Anyway, they are created in the same fashion as the “Perch-float Popper” that is described in “Flies” saltwater page. The materials, however, are a bit different, and while you can make them any color you choose, the genetically pure “Roger-Popper” is chartreuse and black!
Hook: Size 4 Dai-Riki 810
Thread: Black Flymaster Plus
Body: Comal small cylindrical perch-float cut to fit hook
Tail: Chartreuse “DNA Holofusion”
Collar: Orvis Standard Black Ice Chenille
There are two major differences between this one and the original P-f P. The first is to paint the body BEFORE you tie on the dressing. The second is to tie three wraps of the ice chenille for the collar, placing a drop of Super Glue at the tie-in point AND at the tie-off point, the latter drop being best applied from the tip of a bodkin.
One thing about the paint. You won’t find any chartreuse Testors enamel – at least, I’ve never been able to. So you must mix green and yellow to get it. I suggest you start with yellow and add the green a LITTLE at a time until you get close to matching the Holofusion.
That’s it. My duty is now done, Stouff!
One thing about flies that I learned real quick was that if you matched the locally-productive conventional lures with them, you’d catch fish. One really fine example of that is the tube-jig fly – actually a depiction of a mini-tube about 1 1/2 inches long. And since one of the most consistently productive tubes hereabouts has a blue body and a white tail, then there’s your entire pattern. I use brass hour-glass eyes for weight – you may use a cone-head if you choose.
Hook: Size 6 Dai-Riki 810 or equivalent 1X heavy straight-eye wet fly hook.
Thread: Blue size 3/0 (Use other colors to match any other colors of the body.).
Body: Blue ice chenille (Size dependant on manufacturer’s designation, generally “small”.).
Tail: White Krystal Flash
Eyes: 7/64 or 1/8-inch brass hour-glass type.
Note: Body, tail, and thread colors are entirely subject to the tier’s preference – a black body with a chartreuse tail is deadly in some areas!
Install the hook into the vise with the point down. Start the thread just behind the hook’s eye and wrap a base layer back to the start of the bend. At that point, tie in a clump of Krystal Flash not quite as thick as the hook’s gape and about as long as the hook’s shank.
Tie in the body material at the base of the tail. Advance the thread to a point just behind the hook’s eye. Apply a drop of super glue at the body material’s tie-in point, and then compactly wrap the body material up to the hanging thread. Secure the body-material at that point and trim it.
Tie in the eyes on the outside of the hook’s shank. They should be right against the chenille body and just far enough behind the hook’s eye to allow room to tie off the thread. Whip-finish, trim the thread, and add a drop of super glue to the thread-wraps across the top of the eyes and to the finishing wraps.
Suggestion: Tie plenty of these if you intend to fish for sac-a-lait with them, because that stout hook won’t bend, and you will lose a bunch of ’em to “structure”!